We’ve visited Darjeeling numerous times and explored several nearby offbeat destinations. During our trips, we’ve always passed through Sonada without giving it much thought. ‘Sonada’ has been a part of Anjan Dutta’s famous song, where we traverse Tung, Sonada, and Ghoom before reaching Darjeeling! This time, our quest for unique spots led us to Sonada, and we discovered it’s a charming place for a short stay.
Sonada – A Weekend Retreat
Sonada is conveniently located almost halfway between Darjeeling and Kurseong, about 17 km from Darjeeling and 16 km from Kurseong. The town is a part of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railways, featuring a quaint railway station that’s currently being rebuilt after a fire in 2017.
As a hill station, Sonada offers nothing but picturesque views. From its higher elevations, you can enjoy breathtaking vistas of the Kanchenjunga ranges. The lower areas are adorned with meadows, tea gardens, and lush pine forests. Nearby tea estates include Cedar, Milling, Kalej Valley, and Balasun.
Our Experience in Sonada
Our visits to Darjeeling are often spontaneous. When there’s an extended weekend, we typically head to Siliguri and decide the next steps from there. Booking train tickets on short notice is challenging, so we usually travel to Siliguri by bus. However, this time, we were fortunate to secure a confirmed ticket to New Jalpaiguri.
We took the Darjeeling Mail and arrived at NJP the next morning, then boarded a shared sumo to Darjeeling. By the time we reached Sonada, it was drizzling. It seemed like rain had become a constant companion on our trips to Darjeeling, as it had poured during our visits to Mahaldiram and Mim Tea Garden. The rain seemed to accompany us yet again.
A light drizzle, however, adds a magical and romantic charm to Darjeeling and its surroundings. We had prearranged a car with our homestay to take us to our accommodation. The car arrived promptly, and we headed to our destination.
Our stay was located in the lower part of Sonada, at Little Ramitey village, just a short drive from the main road. If you don’t have much luggage, you could even walk to the homestay in about 15 minutes down a gentle slope.
Nischal Homestay
We soon arrived at Nischal Homestay, our lodging for the night. A bamboo gate welcomed us, leading to a spacious bamboo-constructed common area and dining room.
Adjacent to the dining area, a gravel path led to the garden and the two bamboo cottages available for guests. The cottages, cozily built with small verandahs, featured bamboo furniture. Nischal Homestay is newly established; we were the 22nd guests, according to our host. He mentioned plans to add two more mud cottages, aiming to keep the total number of rooms to four to ensure top-notch hospitality.
Cottages at Nischal Homestay
After settling in, we enjoyed a delicious lunch featuring rice, dal, vegetables, and egg curry, along with a dish made from local produce. The food was so delightful that we ate more than usual!
Following lunch, we ventured into the village. Various trails beckoned, and we chose the one leading to the forests. Unfortunately, the rain soon drove us back to the homestay.
Our evening was spent conversing with our hosts and sipping Darjeeling tea with pakodas. Our hosts, who lived next door, invited us to their home for a chat about Buddhism.
Our Room at Nischal Homestay
The next morning, we awoke to the sound of birds chirping. Surrounded by tall green trees, the homestay offered a serene and peaceful environment, ideal for a relaxing weekend.
Clear Morning Sky at Sonada
While lounging around is an option, those seeking activity can take a car and explore the surroundings.
Things to Do in Sonada
Several attractions await in Sonada. Since it’s close to Darjeeling and Kurseong, you can use Sonada as a base for exploring these areas. Here are some activities to consider:
Visit the Sonada Monastery
Every time we visited Darjeeling, we noticed a grand monastery and a line of beautiful chortens just after crossing Sonada. We had always intended to visit but never did. This time, we finally explored the Sonada Monastery, also known as the Samdrup Dorjay Choeling Monastery.
Founded in 1966 by Dorje Chang Kabje Kalu Rinpoche, who was born in Tibet, the monastery served as his residence and the international seat of the Shangpa Kagyu tradition. Kalu Rinpoche passed away in Sonada in 1989, and his mummified body is enshrined in the main shrine.
Mummy at Sonada Monastery near Darjeeling
I was amazed to learn about the mummified monk at Sonada Monastery, having only heard about such things in Spiti Valley. Despite many visits to Darjeeling, this discovery was a surprise.
The monastery features large stupas, a statue of Rinpoche, and a monastic school for young monks. During our visit, a ceremony was underway, and we were invited to observe the monks performing their rituals, which was an almost surreal experience.
Gorato Nalichor Intek Cider
Another serene spot in Sonada is Gorato Nalichor Intek Cider, home to a large statue of Jesus Christ and a sanctum dedicated to Mother Mary. The atmosphere here is peaceful and calming.
Visit the Rainbow Falls
One of the highlights of our Sonada visit was the Rainbow Falls, located at Kalej Valley and Rangbull. Though within walking distance from Rangbull, it’s better to drive from Sonada. The journey through tea gardens and forests culminates in the stunning Rainbow Falls, a sight to behold. The roar of the water and the lush surroundings create a breathtaking experience.
Tea Gardens Exploration
There are several tea gardens around Sonada worth exploring. After our visit to the Rainbow Falls, we spent time exploring these gardens.
After exploring Sonada, we headed to Darjeeling, a must-see destination in North Bengal!
Sightseeing in Darjeeling and Kurseong
You can visit Darjeeling and Kurseong from Sonada, although it’s best to allocate a day for each. For a detailed guide to Darjeeling, check our blog on the topic. If visiting Kurseong, don’t miss Chimeni, a picturesque hamlet along the way.
How to Reach Sonada
The nearest railway station is New Jalpaiguri (NJP), and the closest airport is Bagdogra. From NJP, Bagdogra, or Siliguri, you can hire a car to Sonada, which costs around INR 3000.
How to Reach Sonada by Shared Vehicle
For budget travelers, shared jeeps from NJP or Siliguri Junction to Darjeeling are available at Rs 400 per seat. Buses to Darjeeling also stop at Sonada. From Sonada, a local cab to your homestay costs INR 500.
Homestays at Sonada
Sonada offers various homestays, both in Upper and Lower Sonada. We stayed at Nischal Homestay in Lower Sonada, where the rate was INR 1200 per person per day. You can reach them at +91 8116200234.
