Lolab Valley: Have you heard about a tunnel rumored to stretch from Kashmir all the way to Russia? Although the authenticity of this claim remains unverified, the allure of such a legend adds a touch of romance to the Lolab Valley in Kashmir. This blog serves as your comprehensive guide to exploring Lolab Valley and the Kalaroos Caves located in the Kupwara district of Kashmir.
After several days of rain and overcast skies, we embarked on our journey from Srinagar early one sunny morning. Our destination for the day was the picturesque Wadi-e-Lolab, or Lolab Valley. This oval-shaped valley is nestled in the Kupwara district of Northern Kashmir. Historically, Kupwara was a disputed border area in Jammu and Kashmir, with tourism being limited. However, this is gradually changing for the better.
During the planning phase of our Kashmir trip, I was eager to explore offbeat destinations like Gurez and Lolab Valley. Unfortunately, Gurez was still closed to tourists due to heavy snowfall at the Razdan Pass. Nevertheless, we had the chance to visit the stunning Lolab Valley.
Where is Lolab Valley Located?
Lolab Valley is situated in the Kupwara district of Northwestern Kashmir, close to the disputed Indo-Pakistan border. Known for its natural splendor, the valley is affectionately called the “Land of Love and Beauty.” True to its name, we felt surrounded by love and beauty throughout our visit to Lolab.
Lahwal River in Lolab Valley
Lolab Valley, measuring approximately 5 km in width and 26 km in length, lies between the Kashmir Valley and the Neelum Valley. The region comprises three valleys: Potnai Valley, Brunai Valley, and Kalaroos Valley. It is separated from the Bandipora district by the Nagmarg meadow. Located about 120 km from Srinagar, Lolab Valley is accessible via Kupwara town. The principal towns in the valley include Chandigam, Sogam, Kalaroos, Kigam, Lalpor, Tekipora, Kandi, and Muqam.
Our Experience in Lolab Valley – The Land of Love and Beauty
Our journey from Srinagar to Kupwara took nearly three hours, passing through Pattan, the ancient capital town of Srinagar, and Sopore. The road to Lolab Valley runs past a large army camp, which was temporarily blocked due to military activities that day.
Road to Kupwara
We took a lengthy detour to reach Lolab and soon arrived at the entrance of the valley, marked by a gate with a sign reading “Welcome to Wadi-e-Lolab.” The valley’s beauty was immediately apparent as we crossed the gate, with the river accompanying us and the surrounding pine and fir trees enhancing the picturesque landscape.
Referred to as the “Fruit Bowl of Jammu and Kashmir,” Lolab Valley is abundant in fruits like apples, cherries, peaches, apricots, and walnuts. The valley also features extensive pastures and rice fields, interspersed with small houses with tin roofs, and distant views of the Himalayan ranges.
After a short drive, we reached Khumriyaal, a small village in Lolb Valley. Without a specific destination in mind, we enjoyed the scenic beauty of Lolab Valley. This unplanned exploration, accompanied by our Kashmiri friend Aarif, who also served as an excellent guide, was a delightful experience.
Mountain Views from Lolab Valley
Lolab Valley’s beauty is breathtaking, with expansive green paddy fields and pastures creating an ethereal scene. We observed locals working in their fields with broad smiles. The valley was sparsely populated, with very few people in sight, both locals and tourists alike.
The Lahwal River flows through the valley, surrounded by dense pine and fir forests. Small lakes and pristine meadows are nestled within the hills, and numerous springs and waterfalls cascade from the mountains. The snow-capped Pir Panjal ranges are visible on the horizon. Lolab Valley remains untouched and pristine.
The Villages of Lolab
Lolab Valley is dotted with several villages, where farming and cattle herding are the primary occupations. As we explored the villages, we encountered local Gujjars engaged in their daily tasks, from working in fields to manning shops. Much of the land appeared barren, but we knew it would soon turn emerald green with the arrival of the new season.
Chandigam Village – An Offbeat Spot in Kashmir
A Government tourist bungalow is available at Khumriyaal, though we found it unattended. Another bungalow at Chandigam appeared in better condition and had a caretaker.
After exploring Khumriyal, we set out to visit the Kalaroos Caves. Google Maps proved unreliable, leading us on a fruitless search. Eventually, we resorted to asking locals for directions, and they were more than happy to assist.
Kalaroos
Kalaroos is a charming village within Lolab Valley, renowned for the Kalaroos Caves. These caves are well-known in Kashmiri folklore for their mysterious origin and are situated high on the surrounding mountains.
Way to Kalaroos Caves
After navigating muddy paths, we reached the base of the hill and began our hike up. The trail was slippery from recent rains, requiring careful steps over stone slabs. We trekked about a kilometer up the hill to reach the caves.
Kalaroos Caves
Midway up, we glimpsed the Kalaroos Caves – a large cave-like structure with seven arched niches carved into the rock. At first glance, it resembled a meditation site for Buddhist monks. Locals refer to this natural cave as Satbern or Satbaran.
Mystery of Kalaroos Caves
Local legend holds that Satbern or Satbaran serves as the entrance to the Kalaroos Caves, which are believed to lead all the way to Russia. The village’s name, Kalaroos, is derived from “Qil-e-Rous,” meaning Russian fort, hinting at historical connections with Russia and Central Asia.
Satbaran at Kalaroos Caves
The imposing rock structure known as Satbaran, with its seven doors, symbolizes seven routes to Russia. A local claimed that his ancestors traveled from Russia using these tunnels.
While the historical origins of Satbaran remain uncertain, it is believed to have been an ancient temple used by the Pandavas for worship.
On Top of Satbaran at Kalaroos Caves
Despite the intriguing tales, no concrete evidence links the caves to Russia. The only known exploration was conducted by Amber and Eric Fies from Virginia in 2018, who documented three caves, with two ending abruptly and the third sealed by the Indian army.
Satbaran now extends only about 50 meters before ending abruptly. It may have been part of a larger archaeological system once. After our exploration, we heard about another cave a few meters beyond Satbaran.
Waterfalls at Kalaroos Caves
After crossing a mountain stream and hiking through pine trees, we failed to find the additional cave. However, a local boy guided us to the cave’s entrance. Inside, we discovered various formations indicative of copper deposits. Our guide suggested that walking through the tunnel might lead to another part of Lolab Valley, though Russia seemed far-fetched.
We explored the cave for about 45 minutes before returning to Satbern. Our friend Agni, who preferred to photograph the surroundings, awaited us at the site.
Post-exploration, we relaxed in front of Satbaran, enjoying the crisp mountain air and sunlight. Aarif chatted with the local guide while we hiked back to Kalaroos village.
On the return journey, I slipped in the mud but was kindly invited into a local woman’s home to clean up and enjoy Kahwa.
Kashmiri Kahwa is a beautiful tradition of bonding over tea. Kalaroos village, friendly and welcoming, offered us a glimpse into Kashmiri hospitality. Although we couldn’t stay, we promised to return to Lolab Valley.
How to Reach Lolab Valley?
Lolab Valley is approximately 120 km from Srinagar, with the valley entrance located 9 km from Kupwara town. You can hire a car from Srinagar or take a local bus to Kupwara, then use a local vehicle to reach Lolab Valley.
Where to Stay in Lolab Valley?
Tourist bungalows managed by the J&K Tourism Department are available at Chandigam and Khumriyal. There are no homestay options, but locals are inviting. Kupwara town offers basic hotels and a few eateries for food.
Mountain View from Lolab
Lolab Valley’s allure, combined with the mystery of Kalaroos Caves, makes it a captivating destination. While tourism here is still developing, the area’s potential is immense. Visiting Lolab Valley requires sensitivity to local customs and should be done thoughtfully to respect the community’s wishes.
Lolab Valley Travel Guide – FAQs Answered
Where is Lolab Located?
Lolab Valley is situated in Northwestern Kashmir’s Kupwara district. The entrance is 9 km from Kupwara city, and the valley center is about 120 km from Srinagar.
How to Reach Lolab Valley?
Travel to Kupwara by road from Srinagar. Then, hire a local vehicle to reach Lollab Valley, approximately 9 km from Kupwara.
What to See in Lolab Valley?
Lolab Valley is renowned for its scenic beauty, including meadows, paddy fields, and Kalaroos Caves. The area is also known for its fruit cultivation and serene landscapes.
Is Lolab Valley Safe for Tourists?
Yes, Lolab Valley is generally safe for tourists. However, it’s advisable to check current travel advisories and respect local customs and regulations.
Where to Stay in Lolab Valley?
You can stay in government-run tourist bungalows at Chandigam or Khumriyal. Basic hotels are available in Kupwara town, which also offers some dining options.
Best Time to Visit Lolab Valley?
The best time to visit Lolab Valley is from May to October when the weather is pleasant and conducive to travel and exploration.
